How to Remove Swirl Marks from Your Vehicle [Ultimate Guide]
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How to remove swirl marks and scratches from the car body is a high-quality and really difficult question. The varnish layer is quite thin, so you need to handle it with extreme care. Today we’ll show you how to remove scuffs from the paint of your auto.
General information – How to Get Rid of Swirl Marks
So let’s disassemble What Causes Swirl Marks?
When the surface of the paintwork becomes dull due to the multitude of micro-scratches in the clearcoat, it must be polished. This process should be started with the use of a compound – a special polishing paste that simultaneously removes defects and prepares the surface for polishing. Hybrid polish-compound is suitable even for ceramic and mechanical-resistant coatings, as well as water-based coatings.
Cover all plastic and glass body parts with masking tape to avoid damage. Take a sander and apply the compound to the polishing wheel, rubbing it thoroughly over the entire surface. Make sure the body surface to be treated is clean and dry. Then polish slowly over an area no larger than 50 x 50 centimeters.
Repeat with medium pressure if necessary to remove any remaining abrasions. At the end of the work, wipe the finished surface of the body with a microfiber towel, and the polishing wheel can be cleaned with compressed air.
How to Remove Swirl Marks on a Black Car
During operation, dust, and spots from dried water, small scratches on dark scars are more noticeable than on cars of light shades.
Swirl marks on the black car happen very often and how to get rid from them you will know just now. The black color attracts ultraviolet rays emitted by the sun. These rays have a destructive effect on the paintwork, so black paintwork can wear out and fade faster than other colors. This is why black cars can take longer to detail. However, with the right care, this color looks much more impressive than any other.
Black paintwork is no more difficult to polish than cars of other colors, but all imperfections will be better visible on them, so the work must be done flawlessly. In this article, we will take a closer look at how to properly polish a black car. We will figure out which tools and products to use, how to avoid micro-scratches and holograms at the final stage, how to care for the black paint to keep it in good condition.
The content of the article:
How Often Should a Black Car be polished?
Varieties of paintwork defects or damages
Most superficial, shallow imperfections can either be completely repaired or significantly reduced by machine polishing. These include:
- dry water spots
- holograms,
- vortex micro-scratches (resulting from poor or careless washing and drying techniques),
- shallow contamination (resulting from acid rain or bird droppings, resin from trees),
- shallow/small scratches and swirls,
- occasional deep scratches (the severity of these scratches varies greatly, with some of them being easily polished),
- oxidation (occurs when oxygen molecules from the air act on the paint, as a result of which the paint becomes milky or cloudy. Black turns gray, reds turn pink).
Which polishing machine should you use?
Rotary polishers to remove swirl marks
The spindle, on which the sole for the circle is attached to these devices, is connected directly to the drive mechanism, causing a circular motion. The biggest advantage over eccentric machines is the high cutting force of the paint coating, i.e. defects and scratches are removed much faster. The straight circular motion of the polishing pad gives the person high control over the polishing process. The disadvantage is that the rotary polisher slips off during operation, it can burn through varnish, which requires extra care and control.
You must keep the machine in motion at all times so that the heat does not concentrate at one point.
The rotational speed of rotary polishers is measured in RPM (Revolutions Per Minute).
The rotary clipper takes time to learn and practice. It is well suited for the first stage of polishing to effectively remove imperfections. Can also be used to polish paint to perfection when used by a trained technician. If used improperly, it can leave behind circular micro-scratches and holograms, which require an additional stage of finishing polishing.
Eccentric polishers to remove swirl marks
This type of polisher was originally developed for use by car care enthusiasts. The principle of operation of these polishing tools makes them safer and easier to use.
In the future, these machines become very famous and useful among professionals, as they need less control, and they produce not much vibration, but at the same time, they give enormous results, without micro-scratches and holograms. Thanks to the right combination of wheel and polishing compound, most modern eccentric machines are always ready to remove the most difficult defects and damages.
This type of polisher was originally developed for use by car care enthusiasts. The principle of operation of these polishing tools makes them safer and easier to use.
In the future, these machines become very famous and useful among professionals, as they need less control, and they produce not much vibration, but at the same time, they give enormous results, without micro-scratches and holograms. Thanks to the right combination of wheel and polishing compound, most modern eccentric machines are always ready to remove the most difficult defects and damages.
These cars have 2 points of movement. The circle rotates and at the same time oscillates (oscillates). When too much pressure is applied to the polishing pad, the wheel stops rotating and only oscillation remains. The reason these machines are safe is also the reason for their limitation.
Speed of eccentric polishers
The rotational speed of eccentric polishers is measured in OPM (Oscillations Per Minute). Sometimes you can also find the designation of speed in RPM (rotations per minute – rotations per minute), but this is not the same RPM as on a rotary machine. At maximum engine speed at no load, the spacer can rotate at up to 10,000 rpm with an oscillation of 6500 OPM. Since it is a friction drive, the rpm is not directly perceptible to the wheel. Under workload, even at 6500 OPM, the wheel can rotate at 1-2 revolutions per second or even decelerate to zero if you apply too much pressure.
After their work, holograms and micro scratches or even swirls usually do not remain.
One of the key differences between eccentric machines is the size of the full orbit. The length of the orbit is determined by how far the freewheel is offset from the physical center. The manufacturer RUPES has developed a series of BigFoot machines with much larger orbits than conventional models. So, the 15 mm size is popular with many professional children.
The eccentric polishers are great for removing minor scratches and abrasions, for finishing polishing, and for waxing. They do not slip during operation like rotary apparatuses and do not heat the paintwork too much.
Direct drive eccentric polishers, both rotary and orbital action.
They differ from a conventional eccentric machine in that both the rotary and oscillating action have a direct drive. Regardless of the pressure you put on the machine while polishing, both the rotation and the oscillation remain constant. They are a little more difficult to control when operating, however, you gain the control benefits of rotary devices without the danger of fast circular motion as the circle moves and oscillates at the same time.
Sometimes the eccentric clipper is simply not enough for really hard scratches and other defects, so the cutting ability of the rotary clipper is needed. Therefore, ideally, you will need both a rotary polisher and an eccentric polisher. But it is not always possible to have both, which is why an eccentric polisher is the best choice for most people.
What kind of polishing discs and pastes should you use to remove swirl marks and scratches?
Between the hardest and softest polishing wheels, different manufacturers can have many different wheel options with different degrees of hardness.
It is important to choose the correct combination of wheel and polishing compound depending on the hardness of the paintwork and the required level of correction. This can be determined using a test (consider this point below).
The combination of at least 3 polishing pastes of different abrasiveness and 3 polishing wheels of different hardness gives you up to 9 different levels of “cut” and finishing polish, as well as the ability to properly polish almost any paintwork.
To select specific pastes, it is worth examining the products of various manufacturers and deciding which brand to use, sticking to its product line. Nowadays, many manufacturers produce self-destroying abrasive pastes (DAT), which are more versatile but give less control over the paint correction process. In contrast to this technology, Micro Abrasive Pastes (SMAT) give more control over the polishing process. An example is the professional products of Meguiars. For more information about the types of pastes, see the article “Types of polishing pastes DAT and SMAT”.
Since the hard (cutting) wheels will do most of the work, you can purchase several pieces of them to change during the polishing process, without waiting for the oversaturated polish and paint residues, and then the cleaned wheel dries. This will speed up the work and increase the efficiency and quality of polishing.
Let’s briefly consider the main types of polishing wheels and their purpose:
- Wool wheels – highly aggressive, used for cutting and removing extreme paintwork defects on very hard paints. These pads remove defects much better than foam discs and generate less heat. However, wool is also safer to use on heat-sensitive vehicle parts such as bumpers and spoilers. Wool can leave circular marks and usually requires an additional finishing step. Used with a rotary machine.
- Microfiber discs – used with eccentric clippers for a more “aggressive” effect. There are different hardness. In general, they give a harsher action than foam pads.
- Foam Hard Wheels – Used for non-aggressive cutting (moderate cutting versus wool pads). Used to remove circular scratches, paint oxidation, and shallow scratches.
- Medium-hard foam rubber discs are used to clean paint, remove circular micro-scratches, surface scratches, and other shallow defects in car paint.
- Foam Finishing Wheels – Provides minimal or no cutting. Used for finishing polishing and for applying wax and sealant.
When choosing a suitable wheel or paste, always make sure that the aggressiveness of the mixture used matches the aggressiveness of the wheel. The wrong combination creates unnecessary work and wastes your time and product.
Do a test before polishing!
An important stage in the process of detailing the paint surface is its diagnostics. It is necessary to determine the hardness of the paintwork, the condition of the surface (using a control light), the thickness of the paintwork (using a thickness gauge).
Varnishes can vary greatly in hardness. Harder paints will require more effort to repair, softer paints tend to be more difficult in the final polishing stage.
The test is required to determine, on a small area, how the paintwork reacts to polishing. You don’t want to polish the whole car and then see that your approach didn’t work out the way you wanted it to.
It is recommended to select a test site on the most heavily worn part of the car body before starting work. You can also scratch with fine P2000 sandpaper.
You should always start with a less aggressive product and circle. If you are not getting the desired result, choose a more aggressive product and circle. Your task is not only to eliminate defects but also to minimize the removal of the varnish layer. The initial choice should be reasonable. For example, if there are a lot of scratches on the surface, then you should not try the softest circle and the thinnest paste for the first stage. This is mostly a trial and error process. With experience, the choice can be made faster.
When eliminating defects in the paint and varnish surface, consider not only what kind of paste and polish you will use, but also how you will work. The choice of the speed of rotation, the applied pressure – all this will affect the abrasive properties of the polishing compound. You can also determine how many polishing steps are required.
Lighting
Lighting is very important when polishing a black car. Without an additional light source, it will be difficult to determine if we have removed all the scratches. All imperfections will be visible in sunlight, therefore it is necessary to control the paint and varnish surface during the polishing process.
There are special lighting fixtures on sale for detailing, but they are very expensive.
Fluorescent lamps are usually used as general lighting as they will not show all the scratches. Halogen lamps can be used as a local source of the pilot light, but they get hot and give an orange tint, and may hide some defects. The most suitable low-cost option would be LED luminaires with light temperatures ranging from 4000K to 5000K. This will make the scratches perfectly visible.
Polishing a black car
General information to get rid of swirl marks and scratches
Before polishing, the vehicle must be thoroughly washed and dried. Use clay or auto scrub to remove stubborn dirt. This is a general rule of thumb for a good polish, but it is especially important for a black car, as any small particles will get under the polishing wheel and will scratch the varnish.
Some kind of protective coating may be applied to the paint. One of the signs of this is the hydrophobic effect of the LCP. The protective layer can influence the action of the polishing products during the first polishing step. It is better to remove it. There are special highly alkaline shampoos for removing various coatings.
If you have washed the body as much as possible, but polishing does not work according to the usual scenario, there may be a layer of protection left on the surface. In this case, you can increase the amount of polishing compound applied to the wheel (better harder). This will help to remove the protective film faster. In the future, the amount of product must be reduced, and do not forget to clean the circle after each section.
The body should be divided into sections (60 cm by 60 cm), it is not worth working on a whole panel at a time. For example, the hood can be divided into 3 or 4 parts, depending on the size, and work on each section separately. Thus, the work will be done more thoroughly, the paste will not dry out ahead of time.
Process of Polishing
Before polishing, usually, a few points of paste are applied to the wheel and some water is sprayed to moisten dry foam or other material. Another method of preparing a dry, clean polishing pad for work is also used, which is even recommended by some well-known manufacturers of detailing products.
The top layer of the circle material is saturated with the paste. This ensures that the clean areas of the pad do not come into contact with the paint, scratching it initially, and the polishing process begins immediately.
Besides, preparing the surface of the wheel will help reduce product consumption in the future. Apply the paste to the circle to prepare it. Spread the product over the surface with your finger and saturate the pores of the foam. Don’t over-saturate the foam, just use enough to make sure 100% of the work surface is covered with the product. Optionally, you can also cover the outer edge.
This aids in handling convex bends in the panels that might come in contact with the pad edge. Another option for preparing a dry, clean pad is to use a special product called Polishing Pad Conditioner. This product makes the rigid material more flexible to fit the contours of the body panels.
Before turning on the clipper, first, place the wheel against the paintwork. This minimizes splashing. While the circle is spinning, keep it in contact with the surface of the vehicle and turn it off before lifting it.
For the best results possible, clean the polishing wheel after each panel and, for very soft paint, in the middle of the panel.
For the polishing product to work, you need to constantly apply moderate pressure to the wheel. It should lie horizontally on the surface, without tilting.
LED Light
Use the LED flashlight to check the work result after completing each section. This will help you find any remaining micro-scratches that you may have missed.
It is best to work in overlapping aisles, which will help not to miss a single area of the paintwork.
The speed of rotation affects the effectiveness of the action of the abrasive paste. High speed generates more heat on the paintwork and also causes more “vortices” (circular micro-scratches), so it is better to slow down on finishing passes. We will consider this point in more detail below.
In addition to the speed at which the clipper rotates, hand speed and pressure significantly affect the overall result. The slower you move your hand and the more pressure when using the abrasive paste, the more “cutting” and “correction” you will get.
Moving the car quickly will increase the risk of holograms appearing. Faster movement gives a false impression that you are working faster.
The ideal solution for high-quality polishing of a dark-colored car is to use a rotary polisher with a hard wheel and an abrasive paste in the first step and an eccentric polisher with a softer wheel and a finishing paste in the second step. Thus, the first stage will effectively correct defects, and the second stage will easily eliminate circular micro-scratches and “holograms”.
However, with the right technique, you can qualitatively polish a black car only with a rotary machine, using wheels of different hardness and pastes of different abrasiveness. Likewise, you can polish a car with an eccentric machine only. For more serious defects, you can use a microfiber wheel with an abrasive paste, and for the final stage, a soft foam rubber wheel with a finishing paste. Next, we will consider the sequence and features of polishing with rotary and eccentric polishing machines.
Eccentric polishing to remove swirl marks and scratches
Most eccentric typewriters have 6 speeds. They can start from 2000-3000 and end with 6400-7200. The eccentric machine has a double action: it rotates and oscillates and the speed of these actions is measured in OPM (Oscillations Per Minute – oscillations or orbits per minute).
The design of the machine is such that under a working load, even at the highest speed, the wheel can rotate very slowly or even slow down to zero if you apply too much pressure. Therefore, such large numbers of speeds are not dangerous for the paintwork. A marker can be placed on the base plate to visualize the rotational speed. So it will be possible to see if the rotation is taking place, at what speed or the pressure is too strong.
Visualize a 60cm x 60cm work area. Apply the paste to the circle, lean against the body.
At speed 1, spread the paste evenly over the entire treated area.
Increase the speed to 5-6, slowly move the car left and right, then up and down, in an overlapping motion. Use light pressure on the circle and move slowly at a speed of only 2-3 cm per second.
Reduce speed to 3-4 on the last passes, then turn off the clipper.
Polishing Pastes
Depending on the type of polishing paste used, the duration of the polishing process may vary. Many abrasive pastes now use DAT (Diminishing abrasives Technology) abrasives. When using them, a certain polishing time is required for the abrasives to break down to the smallest particles and to obtain the best result. DAT polishing starts as a white mass and eventually becomes almost invisible, transparent, indicating that the abrasives have decreased and the cycle is complete.
If you polish with such a paste for less than the prescribed time, then circular scratches and “holograms” may remain. Unlike pastes with abrasives DAT, another type of pastes with abrasives SMAT (Super Micro Abrasive Technology – super micro abrasives) uses a non-shrinking abrasive. An example is Meguiar’s M205 Ultra Finishing Polish. Prolonged use will not improve the surface quality as you are already starting with the smallest abrasives. You will generally get the best polishing results in a shorter time. Typically, it can take less than a minute per section.
Maintain moderate pressure on the polisher until the end of the polishing cycle. It is common for rotary clippers to reduce pressure on the last passes, but this does not apply to eccentric clippers. When the pressure is released, the wheel will not have orbital movements, which can lead to imperfections in the final polish.
Use a microfiber cloth to remove any polish residue from the paint.
Check your work under lighting. If any defects remain, repeat the process or use a different combination of polish and wheel. If it is necessary to increase the polishing force, increase the pressure on the wheel or decrease the speed of the clipper over the paintwork.
The above speeds are just a starting point, not a rule. Different paints and varnishes may require different speed settings. A general rule of thumb is to start at a low speed, distribute the polish, increase the speed for the main defect correction process, then lower the speed for the finishing stage.
The wax is usually applied at a slower speed. During this step, you can move the wheel fairly quickly across the paint surface, but it is important to do it evenly.
Rotary polishing to remove swirl marks and scratches
Apply 3-5 drops of polish to the wheel. Spray the pad twice with water to lubricate it. Add a few pea-sized drops of polish around the edge of the pad. Lean the circle against the body several times to transfer the product to its surface.
Start the clipper at a slow speed and spread the paste evenly over the 60 cm by 60 cm area.
Increase the speed and move the clipper evenly. Move the circle slowly from left to right, right to left about 3–5 cm per second with moderate pressure.
The rotation speed can be different and depends on the hardness of the wheel, the polishing product, the ambient temperature, the hardness of the paintwork. You can follow the recommendations of the paste manufacturer, for example, Farécla suggests not exceeding 2000 rpm for most of its products, and in most cases recommends using a speed from 0 to 1500-1800 rpm.
In fact, for most paintwork, when using a foam circle, a maximum of 1200 RPM will be sufficient, in rare cases, for very hard paint, the speed can be increased to 1500-1800 RPM.
Using Process
Use a sliding dial of 600-900-1200 RPM – start with spreading paste and initial passes at 600 RPM, then increase to 900 RPM, culminating at 1200 RPM, then decrease to 900 RPM or 600 RPM min, reducing the pressure, almost raising the circle, for finishing. At 1200 rpm it is necessary to make 3-4 passes, most of the defects in the paintwork will be and will be removed, the paste with DAT abrasives will go through a full cycle of work (until it breaks down to the smallest abrasives).
Once you’re done polishing, gently wipe the surface with a microfiber towel.
Look at the paint. If the scratches are still visible, repeat the process, perhaps with less pressure.
Avoid quick movements with the machine, as well as the excessive holding of the device in one place.
As a rule, more “aggressive” cuts can be made with wool wheels at 1600–1800 and even up to 2000–2100 rpm.
Additional stage / stages. Finished polishing
In some cases, polishing can be done in 1 step. This may depend on the hardness of the paintwork, the degree of damage, and the polishing product used. One-step eccentric polishing can give a good result, but not always.
After polishing with a rotary machine, micro-scratches and holograms may remain, which will require an additional final polishing step.
As mentioned earlier, an eccentric machine is better for finishing polishing, but with the right technique, the process can be completed well with a rotary machine.
The second stage may require the use of a softer wheel or finer abrasive or a combination of both.
The final polishing process is much shorter than the first step because only small scratches and holograms are removed. Usually, 1-2 passes are sufficient. This does not require high speed.
Stages of Polishing
There can be 3 stages of polishing. It all depends on how the paint reacts to the polishing effect. Soft colors, for example, are easy to adjust but difficult to flawless. 90% of defects can be eliminated and subtle micro-scratches remain. To eliminate this, you need to change the circle to the finishing one and use an ultra-thin paste. In this case, the amount of product should be kept to a minimum. You need to check the result after each pass with a polishing pad, if necessary, repeat the process.
Checking the result
After polishing, residual oils from the paste can fill micro-scratches and hide the real result of the work done.
It is necessary to remove oil residues from the paintwork using a special degreaser, degreasing shampoo, or a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water.
The mixture can be in different proportions (1 to 1 or with high alcohol content). Plain alcohol without water evaporates too quickly. For convenience, you can pour a mixture of alcohol and water into a spray bottle. After spraying, the mixture should work for 30–45 seconds, after which it should be wiped off with a clean microfiber.
A degreasing process is also required before applying a protective coating. Polymer sealants do not bond properly with the paint surface, if oils are present, this will affect their durability.
Holograms
Holograms are a term used to refer to a specific type of paint defect. They often look like strange shimmering patterns (hence the name) on the surface of the paintwork. Visible in direct sunlight. Holograms can be visible from one angle but disappear from another. They also tend to float away from the paint surface.
Common causes of holograms:
When polishing, worn or low-quality wheels are used that do not evenly cover the polishing surface.
May occur when the body is wiped with a rag, which scratches the paint, creating micro-scratches.
The holograms are created at the first stage of polishing using a hard foam rubber (or woolen) wheel and an abrasive paste when the deepest scratches are removed. These holograms most often remain after a rotary machine.
Circular micro-scratches and holograms are formed when the polisher is moved too quickly over the surface of the paintwork, or when a self-destroying abrasive (DAT) compound is used that does not process or break sufficiently.
Holograms are the result of a rotary machine with a rigid circle that is tilted during operation.
Holograms can be removed with proper polishing or masked with good wax or glaze.
Holograms are easily corrected with an eccentric machine. With the correct polishing technique, this defect can also be corrected with a rotary machine. For this, a finishing paste and a medium-hard circle are suitable. It is important that the circle is flat against the body and not at an angle.
The last passes are made at reduced speed with reduced pressure. For more details on the elimination of “holograms” read in the article “How to remove holograms after polishing”.
Hand polishing or Removing of swirl marks by hands
Manual polishing may be required for hard-to-reach places of the body, in case of danger of rubbing through the paintwork, if you have little experience in polishing with a machine or simply do not have polishing tools. Its main advantage is its safety.
This process is ineffective, laborious, and cannot be compared in speed with machine polishing, however, it can give good results, depending on the hardness of the paintwork and the degree of its damage.
For polishing, use foam rubber, or microfiber applicator, or a special napkin.
Moisten the polishing pad slightly with clean water. It also shouldn’t be too wet.
Hand polishing compounds
There are various hand polishing compounds available.
They can be found in car care stores or specialty detailing stores. The ordinary polishing paste may also work. The choice of product will depend on what task you need to accomplish. If you need to remove scratches and abrasions, then you will need an abrasive compound.
The size of the polished area is approximately the same size as when using the machine.
Apply a few drops of the paste to the applicator and spread it over a small area of the body. Apply the polish in a circular motion. It is then more efficient to polish with straight strokes using constant and even pressure.
The composition will gradually build up on the pad, making it sticky. In such a state, the use of the pad becomes difficult and ineffective. Rinse the applicator frequently with clean water and squeeze out.
Continue buffing until scratches or other imperfections are gone.
Once the compound has been processed and only a slight haze remains, buff off the remaining polish with a soft microfiber towel.
After polishing, you can apply a coat of automotive wax or sealant for protection.
Protective coating
After polishing, it is better to apply a protective coating to the paintwork. Protected paint is less dirty and easier to wash.
As a protective layer, you can choose both a durable ceramic coating and a less durable sealant or wax.
Synthetic paint sealants are considered the best in temporary coatings for durability and ease of application but may be inferior to waxes in gloss and scratch protection.
There are three types of wax. Spray wax is the easiest to apply and can be applied after washing and drying.
Liquid wax lasts longer and takes a little longer to apply. Paste wax is the most difficult to apply but provides the longest-lasting protection and shine.
In addition to acting as a barrier, a good wax can also enhance the appearance of a topcoat. Some waxes can fill in and mask small scratches.
Read the instructions and follow the directions before applying the protective coating.
Applying wax by hand usually consists of the following steps:
- Apply a small amount of wax to a clean applicator pad and apply one small area at a time.
- Apply wax evenly, without gaps.
- Several thin coats provide better protection and shine than one thick coat.
- After spreading, let the wax dry to a translucent “haze” for 10-15 minutes.
- Remove residue and lightly buff the surface with a clean microfiber towel.
Some waxes can also be applied with a polishing machine.
The best way to do this is to use an eccentric clipper.
- Take an eccentric clipper and attach a soft foam pad to it for a final polish. Apply a small amount of wax to it and use your finger to spread it over the entire surface. Apply 2-3 more pea-sized dots of wax to the soaked foam.
- Place the polishing pad on the surface of the body and turn on the clipper. Spread the wax using a straight motion, overlapping each pass to ensure an even coating. Apply more wax to the foam as you move on.
- Setting the rotation speed for wax application is from 3 to 4. The trick is to apply an even and light layer of wax to the entire paint surface.
- Let the wax dry.
- Remove residue with a clean, dry microfiber towel.
Tips to Avoid Scratching and Swirling Your Black or other Car When Washing and Care
Black paint is difficult to maintain. Requires regular renewal of the protective coating, waxing. You can’t get a flawless black paint job just by washing your car regularly. Improper cleaning will lead to micro-scratches, which are especially noticeable on dark paintwork in bright sunlight.
Follow these guidelines for caring for dark-colored vehicles.
If possible, use a pressure washer before hand washing.
For hand washing, use a special microfiber or virgin wool mitt.
Never use soap or dishwashing detergent. Use a quality car wash shampoo.
Use the “two bucket” method. Buy buckets with a special grid at the bottom that protects the washing glove from dirt and debris. This method allows you to separate the dirty water for rinsing a sponge or washing gloves and clean water that is in contact with the paintwork of the car, therefore, should not contain solid particles.
After each sponge wash, rinse the sponge with plain water. Thus, soapy water will be cleaner, without a lot of solids that can scratch the paint. Read more about the rules for washing a car in the article “how to wash a car correctly”.
- Never wash your car in direct sunlight.
- Never dry your car with a bathroom towel. Use quality microfiber towels.
- Use a separate bucket and glove to wash the wheels.
- Never wax your car if the paint looks rough. In this case, use a cleaning clay or auto scrub.
How often should a black car be polished?
Non-abrasive polishing can be performed as often as required. Full machine polishing should be performed no more than once a year, or less often as needed. It is necessary to measure the thickness of the varnish and make an appropriate decision on deep polishing.
By using the correct washing and drying technique, there should be no additional requirements for machine polishing other than pinpoint correction of abrasions and scratches. Mild abrasive polishing with finishing paste will have very little effect on the surface and will practically not reduce the thickness of the varnish.
In conclusion, we can summarize that polishing a black car does not require any secret techniques. You just need to do everything correctly and carefully, by a preliminary test on a small area to determine which products will give the required result, and repeat this process on the entire body. Maintain perfect surface and wheel cleanliness while polishing, set good lighting for control. Correct pressure and number of passes, depending on the result.
It also will be useful for you to know how to remove tar from your car. Please check this article and let us know. If you have any other good ideas or methods, please drop us a line
